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Post by Jay Raymer on May 21, 2005 9:30:57 GMT -5
It's time to get some stuff going here so...here's the new thread...I'll try to post some stuff here and there as I think of it.
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Post by Jay Raymer on May 21, 2005 9:31:22 GMT -5
Most people who go RVing in a Motorhome tow a dingy behind them so that they don't have to break camp to go out to dinner or shopping or whatever. There are several options when it comes to towing an automobile behind you. First and foremost find out how much weight your RV is designed to safely tow as well as they weight rating of the hitch. This information can be gotten from the ID plates, weight rating stickers in the motorhome, on the hitch, from the manufacturer or your dealer. Do not exceed the recommended weight rating recommended by the manufacturer.
There are many different ways of towing all kinds of vehicles. I am going to go over many of them but first I want to talk about brakes. Yes, you need them and I highly recommend some sort of braking device in your towed vehicle. It is law in many states and Canada. Even if you choose to use a car trailer or tow dolly, they should also have brakes. Without auxiliary brake systems, the stopping distance of your Motorhome is greatly increased and could result in an accident that normally would have been avoided.
There are several different braking systems on the market designed for vehicles being towed on all fours. The one I prefer are the self contained units that sit in the floor board of the towed car, for example the brake buddy or Apollo braking systems. The reason I like these units are because installation is simple, they can be used in multiple vehicles and they DO NOT tie into the manufacturers braking system.
There are several vehicles that can be towed without any extra devices, such as all Honda's, most Saturn's, and most 4x4's that have a true neutral in the transfer case and the majority of stick shift vehicles. Always check with your dealer to find out if your vehicle is towable or not.
If the answer is no, there is a company named Remco that manufactures towing devices such as driveshaft disconnects, lube pumps and others so that many non-towable vehicles CAN be towed on all fours. The most popular way to tow a vehicle is on all fours, without a trailer or dolly for several reasons such as the ease of hook up, to storing a big bulky trailer or dolly at a small campsite.
There are many types of tow bars made to pull your vehicle on all fours but the most popular and easiest to use are the folding tow bars. When first manufactured, they folded up on the front of the towed vehicle so when not in use you had this big bulky steel piece of hardware hanging off the front. Nowadays, they slide in the hitch of your Motorhome and fold up on the back of your RV instead. For the most part with current equipment, you can be hooked up and ready to go in a couple of minutes with very little effort.
Depending on what you choose to tow on all fours, the average price for installed equipment will be between $1500.00 to $2600.00 which does not include a braking device that will run from $1000.00 to $1800.00. A very expensive venture for sure but the good news is that most of these items can be transferred to your next towed vehicle and if properly taken care of should last for many years.
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Post by Jay Raymer on Jun 2, 2005 17:58:15 GMT -5
Preparing your RV for Use after Winter Storage
Wake up Campers! Spring is here and it's time to go camping! I am sure with the warm weather upon us and school getting out soon, you are starting to make vacation plans for the summer. Well DO NOT wait until the last minute to check out your RV from winter storage. There are several check outs you need to do right away because if you have something wrong, most RV Dealers are already 3 to 4 weeks behind in the service departments, so if you need repairs you better get your unit in very soon!
Now let's go over some things you should check annually before the start of camping season.
1. Make a thorough visual inspection of the sealants around roof seams and fixtures as well as windows, compartments and moldings.
2. Check all of the interior ceiling and wall panels for signs of leaks such as pimples, discoloring or stains.
3. Flush fresh water tank with water and baking soda or water freshener.
4. Flush grey and black tanks with water and then charge black water tank with toilet chemical so it is ready for use. Remember to only use bio degradable toilet paper.
5. Inspect all tires and check psi and adjust as per factory recommendations. If there are any cracks or signs of dry rot replace them immediately.
6. Check all engine and generator fluid levels and replace if needed.
7. Test drive motorized units and run generators for at least 2 hours to put fresh fuel in both engines.
8. Check all Air Conditioning systems as well as all other appliances. Refrigerators should be tested for two days and should reach 38 to 40 degrees.
9. Test all slide rooms and lube all tracks and seals.
10. Lube all compartment and entrance door locks.
If all ten checks are performed and come out fine then you should be ready to load up for departure.
If you find problems that need attention from your dealer, get it in as quick as possible because as I stated earlier dealers are getting very backed up with service work and it could take quite a while to get your unit back.
Have a safe and fun summer!
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Post by Jay Raymer on Jul 8, 2005 12:09:38 GMT -5
RV Plumbing Systems
There are basically two systems to your plumbing system. The first one is fresh water and the second is waste water. Let's start with fresh water.
There are two ways to supply your RV with fresh water. The first one is the on board water tank referred to as potable water. It is supplied with a demand style water pump which only runs when a faucet or toilet is used. The second one is city water which is when you are connected directly to an outside water source. When filling potable water tank only take as much as you think you will need because water is very heavy and takes a toll on fuel mileage.
When you are finished with your trip ALWAYS drain the fresh potable water tank. If fresh water is left in the tank for a long time it will become stagnant and smell like rotten eggs. If this happens or at the start of every season it is a good idea to flush the tank thoroughly using fresh water treatment available at your local RV dealer. When using a water hose for filling your tank or city water hook up always make sure you use a hose that is designed for drinking water. They are usually white instead of green like a garden hose and can also be purchased from your dealer.
Now for the waste water system. There are two different types of waste water. The first one is called grey water and the second is called black water. The grey water is sink and bath water and the black water is sewage waste. You must always used toilet chemical for the black water tank and use as per the instructions. Also you should use a biodegradable tissue. These items should be purchased from your dealer as well. They are not available at grocery stores. The chemical deodorizes and most importantly liquifies waste. If you do not use it your tank will definitely clog up.
Always leave the gate valves closed even when camping even if you are next to a dump station. If you leave the black water tank valve open and let it free flow the solids will not liquefy and will also clog your tank. It is best to let your tanks get over half full before dumping. That gives the chemical time to do its job and the weight helps tanks to drain better. Most holding tanks have sensors built in them to read the level of liquid they contain. A dirty tank will give you incorrect readings from sediment stuck to the sensors. It is a good idea not only to flush your tanks when dumping but to use a level gauge cleaner in addition to toilet chemicals.
Have a safe and fun Summer!
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